I have traveled to this bohemian town on three different occasions, three different ways. The first visit was seven years ago. I utilized an Interbus van that choose the Puntarenas… Read more » Continue reading →
I have traveled to this bohemian town on three different occasions, three different ways. The first visit was seven years ago. I utilized an Interbus van that choose the Puntarenas / Paquera ferry to reach the town. It was a gorgeous route, one that I highly recommend! The second was in my own rental car when I was on a scouting trip seeking out potential towns to move to. I took the land route that crosses over the friendship bridge. Lastly, was just a few weeks ago when my wife and I boarded the one hour speed boat from Jaco to Montezuma.
Once in Montezuma, we were hoping to find an apartment or house for a one month vacation rental and see what life was like amongst the bohemian melting pot. We boarded the speed boat and were told that the winds were high and were handed life vests to wear. They also warned us that we will be getting wet. There were high waves throughout the jaunt to Montezuma, and we were soaked to the bone when we arrived. Even with the incremental weather, the staff at Zuma Tours was professional and I never once felt worried. The captain was clearly experienced and the staff put on some fun music to accompany the adrenaline packed ride. They provided bags for all of our luggage, while we were soaked our stuff was dry! From what I hear, and from my ride back, this experience is not all that common. More frequently, the ride is smooth and dry. Either way, I would recommend this route of travel.
Upon our arrival, we found a hostel to dump our bags and began our search for a rental home. Two hostels and six days later we still hadnt found anything. Montezuma is filled with hostels, hotels, bed and breakfasts, restaurants, and tour options, but residential areas are glim. It didnt help any that we were looking for an apartment or house without advanced notice during the busiest time of year. Costa Rica, in January, hosts snow birders from around the world. All looking for one to three month rentals to escape the cold winters back home. We thought that we had accommodations secured through Craigslist but the $350 for one months rent was, indeed, to good to be true. The place was more than double the distance out of town up a steep hill than advertised, and consisted of a pile of termites, spiders, mold, and an inoperable kitchen. To sum up, it was a definite no go.
Our first hostel was Hotel Montezuma. It had a shared kitchen and wifi internet, two things that we really needed. What it didnt have, was a remote chance at sleep. Filled with international party animals, this hotel was a place of congregation and drinking. While, my wife and I are young, we are more of an early to bed, early to rise type who enjoy natural beauty that surrounds us through walks and hikes. Getting plastered is never found on our list of to dos.
If nightlife is what you seek, Montezuma delivers. There is fire dancing, bar crawling, tight rope walking, bon fires, live reggae, and plenty of other night centered options. More people traverse the few streets that Montezuma hosts at night than day. Each street vender lights their table of hand craft jewelry with candles, creating a chill vibe across the streets.
During the day, there was kayaking, SUP boarding, snorkeling, hiking, and waterfall diving to be had. Montezuma waterfall was a definite highlight of the trip. The trail is gorgeous and filled with Capuchin monkeys. The terrain is varied from dirt trail, to scampering over rocks and water, to climbing roots like rungs on a ladder. The first waterfall that you reach is the largest and offers many cliff diving opportunities. The second waterfall is reached through a moderate hike that involves very steep root climbs. Wear good shoes, I took off my flip flops for this section and got impaled with two thorns that I still have in my foot as a souvenir from the trip. Once you reach the second waterfall there are numerous pools to relax in and a 55 foot cliff dive. From the top, if you cross over to the other side of the pools there is another trail that you can continue alongside the river, following it back to more falls, pools, and amazing scenery.
Our second hostel was Hotel Lucy, a sleepy hotel located on a gorgeous strip of ocean with rocks and coves that amplify the sound of the waves reaching the shore. The hostel was about 50 feet from the trail head for the Montezuma waterfall, and half a mile from town center. We paid $24 daily for a room with two windows that offered panoramic views of the ocean, and a delightful breeze. We had two full baths on our level that was shared with about eight rooms, and a kitchen that was shared with the entire hotel, estimated at 25 rooms (some of them dorm rooms). Sharing a bathroom and kitchen with so many people grows tiresome. After about ten days of unfruitful searching, and lack of sleep, we decided to skip town and look for housing elsewhere.