Espíritu Santo, founded in 1574, still resonates in today’s Esparza. When Alonso Anguciana de Gamboa, as the interim Governor of the province of Costa Rica, chose the Coyoche valley to relocate the inhabitants of Aranjuez and thus establish a new city, he did so deceived by the richness of gold mines that turned out to be copper. Therefore, it could be asserted that Esparza was forged from a dream, and with such weak foundations, it has never been able to fully develop despite its antiquity.
After almost four centuries of existence, Espíritu Santo, later known as Esparta and now called Esparza, shows a slow ascent towards progress, visible in new constructions and in awakening its inhabitants from the long lethargy and conformity in which they have lived.
Like in other towns, both positive and negative influences have been felt in Esparza because it couldn’t escape the struggles of local leaders, who both greatly aided and harmed the town.
Generally, the canton’s economy is based on agricultural activities; rice was largely replaced by beef cattle, and recently, sugarcane has surged due to Cuban influence.
Tropical fruits are abundant and of high quality; the fauna is diverse, with the typical animal being the iguana.
In recent years, there’s a sense of revival in the city and the canton as a whole. The change is subtle, but it is palpable, it’s lived.
The city of Esparza, like the Sleeping Beauty, finally awakens from its long four-hundred-year slumber.
Chapter I
History of Esparza
Its foundation:
The origin of Esparza lies in the early pages of Costa Rica’s history as a Spanish colony. Its birth in 1574 witnesses the agony of another town founded by Perafán in 1568 during his government: Aranjuez. The destinies of both were subject to the will of a Spanish governor who temporarily replaced Perafán de Ribera. When he resigned and left the province, the President of the Audiencia de Guatemala appointed Alonso Anguciana de Gamboa as interim Governor and then informed the King of this appointment: ‘Instead of Perafán de Ribera, I provided Alonso de Anguciana, a nobleman from Granada in the province of Nicaragua, as Governor of that province; a wealthy man with livestock and income, and the entire land requested him as such. I believe the provision was accurate and suitable for the settlement and discovery of its wealth because he and those in his company carry a quantity of slaves for the benefit of the gold mines.’
Who was this man whose will birthed our city? Yes, he was rich and important, as attested by the President of the Audiencia, but he was also stern, authoritative, and ruthless. Just as his predecessor had been.
Costa Rica had to endure the abominable institution of the Encomiendas imposed by Perafán, contravening the Laws of the Indies, and later had to endure the same ignominious distribution by Anguciana, although it was also disapproved by the Audiencia.
What ideals guided Anguciana? What goals did he aspire to in his government of the province? His sole purpose was to enrich himself by all means, perhaps a bit of fame as well. It wouldn’t matter if that and only that were his purpose, if he also harbored humanitarian sentiments towards the subjugated people. But what can never be forgiven is that someone in power degrades and humiliates those who cannot defend themselves.
What happened with the Franciscan friars who wanted to leave the province for the Philippines is disgraceful: ‘Anguciana arrested them, put chains around their necks, and put them in the stocks for two months, until their travel fever had passed.’
And the humiliation he subjected a resident of Cartago to speaks of the many abuses he committed without being recorded in history: ‘He had a Cartago resident named Francisco Muñoz Chacón whipped through the streets and denied him the right to appeal.’
Although the Audiencia restored honor and fame to Muñoz Chacón in 1577, the humiliation suffered could not be erased.
Those quotes paint a full picture of the founder of Esparza. And in this poor and tiny Esparza, what abuses did he not commit?
Although the letter that the President of the Audiencia sent to the King is dated October 10, 1573, Anguciana arrived in our country in 1574. In the Coyoche Valley, he discovered some mines that he believed were gold, which led him to order the depopulation of Aranjuez to form, with its neighbors, the City of Espíritu Santo in that valley. And although the neighbors resisted, he imposed his will, only to discover, after spending 20,000 pesos on them, that the mines were copper. Since its inception, the future of Esparza was sad and precarious: the governor, driven by his personal interest, wanted its appearance, but not the neighbors of Aranjuez, who were comfortable in their village. There is evidence of a criminal process pursued in the name of Royal Justice against the neighbors of Aranjuez for refusing to leave their village to populate Espíritu Santo, and also of all the problems that arose from that order which, although beneficial to one, went against the interests of many. And although they eventually submitted, it is pleasing to see that, despite the fear inspired by the governor’s harshness, there were people who raised their voice in protest, as this report states:
‘And regarding their move to the city of Espíritu Santo, he said he knows that the governor has ordered the neighbors of this city to move to said city, who have begun to build houses in said city and have been given positions as mentioned in said information, and have used them, especially Juan Barbosa and Francisco Magariño, mayor and councilor; and he has heard from the above-mentioned and from Estévan de Mena and from Francisco de Fonseca, brother of this witness, that they will not move to said city, even if it costs them their estate; and this he knows.’
Esparza was born out of a desire for profit and against the wishes of the people of Aranjuez. That’s why, I repeat, its future was sad from the beginning – if only the mines of Coyoche had been gold… Perhaps this would have ensured the development and progress of the recent foundation, and eternal gratitude from Anguciana. But as things happened, all it had was the discontent of the neighbors and most likely the hatred and resentment of its creator for not enclosing what he expected and instead losing it rather than gaining. Poor Esparza! Its founder must have regretted his work many times. Disappointed, he abandoned these lands, leaving the nascent city alone and abandoned to its fate. He only reaped bitterness and left us very little luck.
Details from its colonial life
During Diego de Artieda Chirino’s governorship of Costa Rica (1577-1590), the port of Caldera was established under the name of Esparza, within the jurisdiction of the newly founded city of Espíritu Santo. It seems Artieda Chirino named it after his hometown in Spain, very close to Pamplona. He built a road that connected this port to Espíritu Santo, through rugged terrain, over a steep slope that he named, and still retains the name, ‘Cuesta de Mulas’ (Mule Slope). Why? – Because mule caravans transporting goods from the port of Esparza, brought by sailboats destined for the new city and then to Cartago, traversed that path.
Subsequently, the port of Esparza was named Caldera, a name it still retains, and its original name was assigned to Espíritu Santo. Eventually, custom prevailed, and this name change persisted.
Espíritu Santo was situated more or less a league southwest of the current Esparza, to which it was relocated between 1622 and 1629.
Despite Esparza’s troubled start, it did not vanish after initial setbacks but stood firm, resisting hardships and poverty. As nobody had truly desired its foundation, very little was done during the Colonial era for its development, not even for its maintenance. Poverty reigns everywhere, and the abandonment by central authorities is noticeable. Complaints from residents about the prevailing situation are constant, as are complaints from priests because tithes are insufficient in such a poor parish. And what little it had was plundered by pirates who twice attacked the city (1605-1686). During the second assault, English corsairs under Gharpa not only looted but also set it ablaze, with only the Parish Church and the San Francisco Convent spared.
Horrified, residents fled to the countryside and refused to return for several years. In 1693, the city was rebuilt as ordered by Governor Manuel Bustamante y Vivero, and Esparza continued living amid the ruins left by the pirates. Residents recount a tradition, a legend, about these invasions: the pirates stole a golden bell from the Church, but because it was too heavy, they hid it along the road to San Juan, intending to return for it. Since then, every Good Friday, that bell tolls.
Another version claims that it was the residents who hid the bell before the pirates arrived, and thus, the pirates never found it. However, after the assault, the bell was nowhere to be found, yet the tradition of tolling it on Good Friday persists.
Many people still believe this and hear the golden bell toll.
The city was rebuilt, always underpinned by the poverty documented in many records. Despite complaints reaching Cartago, little to nothing was done to seek a solution to the problem. ‘Dated December 10, 1698, Captains José del Haya Bolívar and Francisco de los Reyes Benavides, residents and patricians of Esparza, expose the ruins in which the city lies, to the lieutenant governor and his successor, the lack of governance and mayors, etc., proposing the abolition of that office and the creation of others, to which the Governor resolves point by point, denying them.’
Commercial activities were almost non-existent as there was barely enough production for subsistence. However, some flour, tallow, and biscuits were shipped to Panama.
Extreme poverty and the lingering fear of pirate attacks caused many residents to resist returning until they were forced to do so by order of Governor Fernández de Bobadilla, who decreed ‘the strictest measures for all neighbors who had moved to live in the countryside to return to the city and build houses in it,’ dated May 28, 1777.
As stated by Diego de la Haya Fernández, by that time, Esparza consisted of a church made of logs and mud with a tiled roof, a San Francisco convent of the same construction, fourteen houses with as many Spanish families, and a few humble indigenous people.
Despite its stalled development, Esparza, being such an old city, had relative importance during the Colonial era. Council meetings were held somewhat regularly, it was frequently visited by authorities from Cartago, and it had an Administrator of the Royal Treasury, as evidenced in a bond document for five hundred pesos granted by Sergeant Major Domingo Guerrero in favor of Antonio de Rojas y Miranda, appointed Administrator of the Royal Treasury of the city of Esparza on December 9, 1704.
What may have constituted an advantage for Esparza is that, given its limited economic resources, the Spaniards who settled in the city had to work hard alongside the few indigenous people to produce their sustenance, preventing the formation of aristocratic groups that subjugated the humble. If indeed the mines discovered by Anguciana had been of gold, the city might have prospered materially and for the welfare of the peninsulares. However, it’s also likely that the humble ones wouldn’t have gained much and, on the contrary, would have been exploited in the mines. Thinking this way leads to acceptance of all that happened and stops longing for ‘Why weren’t they gold?’
The year 1821 arrives, and independence comes unexpectedly. Costa Rica doesn’t feel the independence zeal of its siblings. It doesn’t hate the Spanish, coexists with them, and adapts to the life of privations that its poverty compels. It neither seeks nor desires independence because it doesn’t need it. The new ideas of the Enlightenment, which played an important role elsewhere, are practically unknown. There’s affection for Spain and its monarch, and a humble desire to always belong to it. The mistreatment isn’t felt as keenly as by its sister nations; it feels free and even has an incipient democracy, which forms the basis of the current state. The word ‘independence’ is then an empty word. Why would it need it? Esparza aligns with the entire sentiment of Costa Rica, thus the Declaration of Independence that arrived in Cartago on October 15, 1821, takes Esparza by surprise as well. And when on October 29 of that year, independence is proclaimed and sworn, Esparza also joins the celebrations declared by the authorities to commemorate the event. Even though the joy of the people has a somewhat comical aspect on this occasion, as they rejoice over something they don’t comprehend and rather find alarming. It’s noteworthy that Costa Rica, without desiring or seeking independence, reacted better than its siblings to the accomplished event. Not without conscious consideration of the matter, it accepted what was agreed upon in Guatemala and, despite its inexperience, organized itself, following the legal path to becoming a democracy that, despite its flaws, serves as an example to other countries worldwide.
There was no stage of anarchy after independence; Costa Rica, and certainly Esparza, walked legal paths from their earliest steps in independent life.
The creation of the canton
During the presidency of Juan Mora Fernández in Costa Rica, by means of Decree #63 on November 4, 1825, Esparza was granted the title of a city, although this did not change its status as a sad and ruinous settlement.
Certifications from some municipal records of the year 1825 state that the Federal Constitution of Central America was sworn in by the authorities and the people of Esparza.
On April 3, 1827, a decree was issued mandating annual festivities in memory of the numerous and joyful events in the history of independence, and Esparza naturally joined the celebration of these happy events, although nobody yet fully understood the implications of being independent. The break from the past hadn’t occurred. The Spanish authorities remained respected figures, and even when, as in the case of Juan Manuel de Cañas, they stepped away from political leadership, they continued to hold prestige within society.
To demonstrate that not everyone had forgotten Esparza, there exists a proposal dated March 21, 1838, by Deputy J. Julián Blanco, suggesting that Esparza be designated as the capital of the state, or alternatively, the seat of the Supreme Authorities be moved to Tibás, or, as a last resort, comply with the decree that designated El Murciélago as the seat of those authorities. Although there were several alternatives, the first one was the least considered. It’s appreciable that Deputy Blanco believed it possible to make Esparza the capital of Costa Rica.
Independence did not bring prosperity; poverty continued to be the inseparable companion of Anguciana’s city. Copper, not gold, continued to shape its destiny. On August 4, 1840, a report from a Council Commission addressed the file created due to the resistance of the parish priest of Esparza to continue in that Administration due to the miseries and scarcities of the parish, proving that even the ministers of God did not feel strong enough to endure the hardships that were experienced in that city.
Decree #167 dated December 7, 1848, creates the Canton of Esparza in the following manner:
Decree #167 by José Ma. Castro Madriz.
Designates the limits of the Republic and marks the Provinces, Cantons, and Parishes.
Art. 3° The provinces will be San José, Cartago, Heredia, Alajuela, and Guanacaste.
Art. 4° The port of Puntarenas will form a separate region and will be governed in a special manner in its internal regime until the increase in population allows it to be erected into a Province.
Art 8° The Province of Alajuela will be divided into the following cantons:
Alajuela and Esparza.
Before the declaration of the canton, on August 11, 1848, the Municipality of Esparza adhered to the request of San José for the proclamation of the Republic, which also happened with José María Castro Madriz.
Subsequently, during the presidency of Juan Rafael Hora Porras, Decree #39 dated November 6, 1851, provisionally separates Esparza from the Government of Alajuela and adds it to that of Puntarenas, delineates its limits, and dictates rules for local administration, stating that the district of Esparza is very distant from the capital of the Province of Alajuela. Article #1 of that Decree reads as follows:
“While the Most Excellent Legislative Power decides what is convenient, the district of Esparza remains subject to the Government of Puntarenas and segregated from that of Alajuela.”
And so, Esparza became part of Puntarenas. Its vast territories were reduced, and it became a dependency on which it relied for a long time. Puntarenas originated from Esparza, and it would have been logical for it to have become a canton of the original city. However, history isn’t always logical. Many Esparzanos sought work and settled in the port until their efforts bore fruit.
But this fruit wasn’t for Esparza, which, on the contrary, lost commercial activity as the port developed. As a remembrance of the emigration of Esparzanos to Puntarenas, many graves of the port’s ancestors remain forgotten in the canton’s cemetery. Even today, their presence at this cemetery on November 2nd shows that they, too, haven’t forgotten. Puntarenas grew, developed, prospered, while Esparza remained the same old colonial town from ’74. This is a fact, and it remains only to analyze, to the extent possible, the causes that led to its stagnation. However, this will be done in the following chapter when discussing its natural resources, even if we have to once again emphasize the importance of whether a mine contains copper or gold.
Although the decree states it, there isn’t sufficient evidence attesting to whether the residents wanted to change the name from Esparza to Esparta. Nevertheless, Agreement #56 issued by Don Tomás Guardia on September 3, 1879, explicitly states: ‘Considering that the city of Esparza, as indicated in ancient documents, was once called Esparta, and that its principal residents have expressed a desire for it to regain its original name, the President resolves that henceforth, the said city shall once again be called Esparta in all official documents.’
I haven’t found, with my limited research abilities, any document proving that Esparza was originally named Esparza. However, it has been said that the change was due to an explicit request made by the then Political Chief of the canton, Don Carmen Diaz Renario.
Either way, the name Esparta evokes, at the very least, the greatness of the legendary Sparta of Lycurgus.
The development of Esparza took place in a fraternal relationship, giving rise to the so-called ‘patriarchs,’ kind-hearted Spaniards who helped the indigenous people, among whom Don Ignacio Pérez stood out. He would welcome semi-naked Indians seeking asylum, providing them with food and a place to sleep. Apparently, they preferred to sleep on the ground in the courtyard and eat roasted iguanas and regular turtles. The next day, they would continue their journey to San José, where they would be received by Bishop Thiel, or the ‘Father Superior,’ as they called him, at the Episcopal Palace.
It’s possible that as a token of gratitude, the indigenous people might have given something, but it couldn’t have been much because Don Ignacio was never known for his wealth. He raised his family in Esparza, and his descendants still live there. The park in Esparza is named Parque Pérez in his honor.
However, alongside these patriarchs, emerged the so-called ‘caciques’ (tribal chiefs) who were manipulated by the central spheres of government according to the elite’s convenience. For instance, there was Carmen Díaz Renario, a Nicaraguan by nationality and father of Adolfo Díaz Recinos, who would become President of Nicaragua (1911-1916). He played a prominent role as Political Chief during the time of Don Tomás Guardia, and his daughters, the Misses Díaz, worked as teachers in the locality.
The dominance of the Figueroa Candanedo family is also worth mentioning, as well as that of Moisés Águilar. The Figueroas, whose descendants still reside in Esparza, originated from David, Panama. Upon their arrival in Costa Rica, they established commercial relations with a Jamaican black man named McKenzie Key. To settle a debt, Key transferred properties in Esparza to them. Don Aníbal Figueroa set up a business in this city and brought his brother Clodomiro from David. They continued with the business, which became the most significant in the city. They organized a political party called ‘Unión Esparzana,’ with colors of white, blue, and red; it supported the candidacies of Don Cleto González Víquez, and Don Clodomiro Figueroa became a deputy. Later, during the government of Don Ricardo Jiménez (1910-1914), Moisés Aguilar took over the Political Chief position, becoming the main political enemy of the Figueroas. This time, they had supported Don Máximo Fernández, and thus, they ended up losing. The 1910 Cartago earthquake did not spare the small church in Esparza, which collapsed much to the dismay of the locals. The construction of a stone tower was promoted, and several carts brought large granite stones from Cartago for this purpose. Don Juan Bautista Carvajal, an elderly patriarch of Esparza, remembers the parade of carts and the joy it brought to the town. He was a member of the Church Board and assisted in its construction. When Don Alfredo González Flores assumed the Presidency, the Figueroas supported him, and Don Clodomiro became the Governor of Puntarenas. Later, they supported the Tinoco regime, but upon its fall, with Don Julio Acosta, Don Moisés Aguilar once again emerged as the influential figure in Esparza. Around the years 1921 or 1922, Don Julio’s visits caused great admiration among the townspeople. He was received at Don Manuel Aguilar’s house, brother of Don Moisés, and the display of luxury, food, and drinks was something the town wasn’t accustomed to witnessing.
This situation of alternating hegemony in the canton persisted to the point where Esparza was divided into two factions: those who sided with the Figueroas and those who aligned with the Aguilars, with little regard for the presidential candidate. This situation was still felt during the Campaign of ’48, which was inherently violent across the country. By this time, neither Don Clodomiro nor Don Aníbal were alive, but their children, who were their political heirs, were present. The Figueroas were supporters of the Ulate faction, while Don Moisés was aligned with the Calderonistas. The division among the townspeople was profound, and the revolution exacerbated it. However, something positive emerged from it all; after the storm, came calmness and harmony among the people of Esparza.
Although the power some individuals wield in a small town, driven by personal interests, sometimes leads to fatal consequences, it also carries some positives, especially in the material aspect. Around 1908, Don Clodomiro promoted the installation of the first pipeline from Pinchantes, but being made of tin, it didn’t yield successful results; later, it was replaced with a galvanized one. The establishment of the market is also attributed to the Figueroas. According to the words of Don Clodomiro Figueroa Montoya, son of Don Aníbal, the struggle between Aguilar and Figueroa hindered Esparza’s development because if one side proposed something, the other would vehemently oppose it. As they alternated in power, each was determined to belittle or destroy the work of the other.
It can be argued then, that the actions of small hegemonic groups in a place are likely an inseparable part of an evolutionary process that every population in Costa Rica went through. There were crises, periods of calm, transformations in the town, and in the end, we’re left with memories of things that once were. We look back with a bit of nostalgia and look forward with a lot of hope towards the future.
Chapter II
A – Boundaries
Its current boundaries are: to the north and northeast with San Ramón; to the south with the east with San Mateo; to the west with the Central canton (Puntarenas); to the northwest with Montes de Oro; to the southeast with Orotina.
According to a verbal exposition made before a commission of the Legislative Assembly by Lic. Carlos Meléndez, the canton had very different boundaries in the past. With excellent documentation, he affirmed that the colonial jurisdiction of Esparza extended from Montes del Aguacate to the Salto River, bordering the Nicoya District, thus including four cantons of the Guanacaste province: Bagaces, Las Cañas, Abangares, and Tilarán. This segregation occurred after 1821.
In ‘History of Costa Rica during Spanish Domination’ by Don León Fernández G., several references about Esparza’s jurisdiction are found. For instance, Governor Don Diego de la Haya, in his report of 1719, mentions that Esparza has ‘two valleys in its jurisdiction called Landecho and Bagaces, composed of herds of cattle…’
Bishop Morel de Santa Cruz in his report on Costa Rica in 1752 provides significant references about the area, stating that ‘its jurisdiction starts at Aguacate… and ends at the Salto River.’
These two examples suffice to support the assertion, as there are abundant references that could be provided to reinforce such a claim.
As evident, time took away a significant portion of its territory, turning it into a secondary canton.
B – Territorial Division
Esparza is the second canton of the Puntarenas province and is divided into five districts, encompassing thirty hamlets:
First District: Esparza with its hamlets: Humo, Artieda, Mojón, Mojoncito, Las Brisas, Caldera, Mata de Limón, Tranqueadero, Tejar.
Second District: San Juan with its hamlets: San Juan Chiquito, Juanilama, El Jocote, Sabanilla, El Silencio, Caldera Vieja, Cambalache, Jesús María.
Third District: Macacona with its hamlets: Marañonal, Nances, Santa Elena, La Angostura, Santa Clara.
Fourth District: San Rafael with its hamlets: Maratón, Salitral (Facio), El Barón, Llanada del Cacao, Escobal.
Fifth District: San Jerónimo with its hamlets: Cerrillos, Sabanita (Sabana Bonita), Peñas Blancas.
C – Area and Population
The approximate area of the Esparza canton is 227.23 square kilometers.
The population, as of January 12, 1970, is 11,512 inhabitants, distributed among the districts as follows:
Esparza 6409 hectares
San Juan 1526 hectares
Macacona 1465 hectares
San Rafael 877 hectares
San Jerónimo 1235 hectares
D – The Relief of the Canton
In the Central, Macacona, and San Rafael districts, flat areas predominate, while in the other districts, rugged terrains are more common.
E – The Soil of the Canton
It falls within the zone of low agricultural potential in the country. Generally, locals say, ‘The lands here aren’t great for agriculture; if you want a good harvest, you need to fertilize.’
However, the soil of Peñas Blancas in the San Jerónimo district is rich and productive.
F – Climate and Temperature
Esparza is situated 275 meters above sea level. Its climate is warm and dry. Despite being only 22 km from the city of Puntarenas, the climate is much more pleasant, or to put it another way, much more tolerable.
During the rainy season, temperatures range from approximately 27.2°C to 26°C, and in the dry season, from 28.9°C to 36°C.
The dry and rainy seasons are well defined, without excessive conditions that cause serious problems for agriculture. During the dry season, the northeast trade winds, commonly called ‘nortes,’ blow.
G- Vegetation and Wildlife
Esparza is located in the dry Pacific region, and the vegetation is tropical. Savannah and sparse forests predominate. Trees aren’t usually densely clustered; they generally don’t surpass 20 meters in height, and many provide excellent wood for construction. Most of them shed their leaves; during the dry season, this causes the environment to appear somewhat dull.
Among others, there are trees like the higuerón, providing excellent shade for livestock, the pochote, and guachipelín.
Regarding fauna, Costa Rica doesn’t have clearly delineated zones of wildlife types, and the animals found in Esparza are common in other regions too.
For instance, the quintessential animal is the iguana; being called a ‘garrobero’ is synonymous with being from Esparza. However, more beautiful specimens of this reptile are found in Guanacaste. This is because while in Esparza its meat is highly sought after, in Guanacaste, they find it repulsive to eat it. Therefore, the animals have more freedom to multiply and thrive until the Esparzanos go after them.
Deer, often hunted, are nearly extinct in the area, just like the agouti.
There are various types of turtles, including the so-called ‘padlock’ turtle, because they say that once it bites someone, it doesn’t let go ‘until a parrot flies by.’
Unfortunately, snakes abound, from harmless ones to the treacherous velvet snake and rattlesnake.
Parrots, parakeets, squirrels, bats, hawks, and other species are quite common.
Chapter III
Economic and Human Aspect
A- General Economy
Esparza’s economy saw a resurgence in 1915 when the government of Alfredo González reinforced and consolidated the Local Credit Unions, which had been functioning since the previous administration of Ricardo Jiménez.
Many Esparza farmers made use of agricultural and livestock credit, leading to a notable economic boom.
Currently, there is a branch of the Banco Nacional de C.R. (National Bank of Costa Rica) providing excellent services to livestock farmers, agriculturalists, and merchants.
B- Main Crops
1- Rice
Rice is cultivated on a small scale in all districts but especially in San Rafael. The land is suitable for the crop, but fertilization is necessary. With proper fertilization, yields range from 22 to 35 quintals per manzana. The most commonly used variety is the IR-8.
In the Macacona district, many fields that were once rice paddies now flourish with sugarcane.
There are four rice mills in the canton’s headquarters that provide services to farmers.
2- Sugarcane
This crop gained significant momentum with the arrival of Cubans in the canton. They constantly demonstrate that sugarcane yields better economic returns compared to livestock or rice. Their propaganda, the example set by purchasing and planting sugarcane fields, and establishing a modern mill at the entrance of the Montes de Oro canton are factors contributing to making this product one of the most important here. Some farm owners have even converted their good pasturelands to sugarcane fields, resulting in a loss.
Sugarcane is now planted in all districts, especially in Central and Macacona.
3- Beans
Beans of excellent quality thrive in all districts, especially in San Jerónimo. Their cultivation is often combined with maize, pineapple, cassava, etc.
Usually, the produce is sold in the canton’s main city, although some is also sold outside the area.
4- Maize
It’s a tradition for everyone who owns a small piece of land to grow corn for household consumption, for the year’s tortillas, and for the poultry. They usually plant it late in the season to complete their harvest.
Of course, maize is also grown on a larger scale for the market, especially in the districts of Macacona, San Rafael, and San Juan. The National Production Council provides necessary seed to farmers.
5- Coffee
There’s always someone who grows coffee plants for household use; they roast and grind it to enjoy pure coffee. This even happens in the Central district.
On a commercial scale, coffee is grown in the San Jerónimo district, in an area called Peñas Blancas. The climate in this zone is temperate due to its considerable altitude, which favors coffee cultivation as well as other products typical of the Central Valley. A processing facility has been set up, and once the coffee is ready, it’s transported through Alajuela, a better location compared to Esparza.
6- Fruit Production
Esparza is an excellent fruit-producing zone. There are numerous types of tropical fruits found throughout the region.
Mangos and avocados are renowned for their quality and size.
Pineapples grow beautifully and are exceptionally flavorful, as are papayas.
We can’t overlook the high-quality citrus fruits: oranges, sweet and sour lemons, mandarins, etc. Oranges, especially the ‘malagrias’ or common oranges, and the ‘malagueñas,’ are highly sought after in the San Jerónimo district.
Nances, star apples, mamoncillos, sapotes, sapodillas, guavas, cashews, etc., delight both adults and children.
7- Other Crops
As secondary crops, cassava supplies raw material to the starch factories in the city of Esparza, and it’s also indispensable for the ‘olla de carne,’ a traditional Costa Rican beef stew.
Plantains and yams are essential in local diets. Bananas are used to feed livestock during the dry season.
Tomatoes are a primary crop, especially in the San Rafael and San Juan districts.
Cilantro, radishes, cucumbers, sweet peppers thrive in well-maintained vegetable gardens. Unfortunately, the tradition of cultivating home gardens ‘for consumption’ has been fading lately. Nowadays, only those aiming to sell the produce in the market tend to plant them.
8- Livestock
Beef cattle and their use in meat and milk production.
Livestock has seen significant growth recently, with lands once used for rice or maize cultivation now turning into pasture.
Esparza isn’t particularly suited for dairy farming with specialized cattle for that purpose. The norm is beef cattle, especially Brahman, although good Brown Swiss and Guzerat bulls have been acquired to enhance their herds.
In general, cattle farmers typically milk a few cows for household use and sell the surplus. They use the proceeds to pay interest to the bank as most of them are financed through this means.
The market is widespread in the city of Esparza, always well-stocked with essential items.
The National Production Council’s tobacco monopoly provides excellent services to the community.
Presence of Small-Scale Industry
The existing industries in Esparza demonstrate the benefits of embracing entrepreneurial spirit. There’s a pressing need to boost industrialization to combat unemployment and enhance the standard of living for residents.
The primary industries include:
a- Ceramics
Situated west of the city of Esparza, this industry provides economic support to numerous households. It specializes in manufacturing tubes, mainly sold in San Jose.
b- Ice Factory
This factory now supplies the entire canton and even has surplus product for distribution in Barranca and Miramar.
Before its establishment, one had to buy ice in Puntarenas, which was quite inconvenient despite the good quality of the product. Additionally, the ice produced in Esparza is continually improving in quality and may soon match the best available.
C- Human Aspect
a- Ethnicities Populating the Canton
As an important hub during the colonial era, Esparza had a significant presence of Spaniards who settled permanently. Numerous families in the Central district, as well as other districts, are their descendants; it’s nearly rare to find a family that doesn’t say, ‘my great-grandfather was Spanish.’
This has resulted in a predominance of a fair skin type, quite distinct from regions like Guanacaste, for instance.
Indigenous populations were already scarce during the Spanish colonization, and those remaining withdrew into the mountains or assimilated into Spanish groups.
The black ethnic group is almost unknown in the canton.
The Chinese have made their presence felt; in the twenties, they even dominated commerce. Some still have businesses today, but they don’t dominate the market as they once did in Puntarenas. Some Chinese families migrated to this city because the port offered better opportunities.
Italian influence hasn’t been very significant, although there were a few engaged in trucking businesses, albeit not for long. It was also Italians who set up the tube factory, which is now the main industry in the area.
The Esparzan of today, a product of the Indo-Spanish mix, has developed an apathetic mentality, averse to struggle and with a strong sense of conformity. This has been, to date, the main cause of the limited development in the area. There’s a lack of entrepreneurial spirit, of seeking, demanding, and, of course, collaborating.
b- Education and Culture
1- Primary Education Centers
In 1870, during the administration of Don Jesús Jiménez, the first public and official school was established in the city of Esparza. Its director was Clotilde Fernández V. de Mora, Josefina, who came to settle in Esparza.
In chronological order, the directors were:
The Spanish pedagogue Manuel Peinado; Carlos Cabezas; Elías Chinchilla; Francisco Javier Alvarado; Uladislao Guevara; Francisco Pérez; Manuel Carvajal; Ginés de Paredes; Víctor Chartier; Teófilo Rivera; Zacarías Zúñiga; Juan Bautista Romero; Juan Rafael Solórzano; Carlos Luis Sáenz; Antonio Picado; Uladislao Gámez; Jesús Vega; Víctor Manuel Solano; Emilio Navarro; Aquiles Gamboa; Gonzalo Marín; Fernando Cabezas; Ramón Salazar; Glauco Soto; Ricardo Carbailo; Rafael Soto Gatgens; Augusto Pereirá; Eilda Jiménez U., to this day, although the school is now divided, with María Luisa García as the director of number two.
From 1870 to 1890, the school was coeducational and was located in front of the north side of the Parish Church.
In 1891, due to a considerable increase in student population, the genders were separated, with the boys’ school staying in the same location and the girls’ school moving to a new building constructed by the Education Board on the south side of the Church.
Directors of the girls’ school were:
Genoveva Gutiérrez; Clotilde Víquez; Albertina Pérez; Hosalía Guevara; Malonguita Figueroa; Amelia Víquez; Maclovia Herrera; María Sancho; Josefa Pons; Ana María Bonilla; María Pons; Delia Oviedo; Mercedes Miranda; Amelia Cagigal; Matilde Hernández; Lucía Saborío; Jacinta Trejos; Herminia Mora; Cesárea Gutiérrez; Leonor Carvajal.
In 1907, a fire that destroyed the Municipal Palace damaged the adjacent school building. The boys’ school then rented a house owned by the Figueroa brothers. Years later, it moved to the building owned by the Esparza-Barranca Railroad, where it remained until 1921. It later moved to the new building constructed during Don Julio Acosta’s administration, and then became coeducational again when it merged with the girls’ school. This is the building currently housing the Municipality and other government offices, facing the north side of the park.
In 1944, the new building was inaugurated on the lot where the Municipal Palace was located. This is the building occupied by the Arturo Torres No. 1 and No. 2 schools today.
Additionally, there are schools in all districts and many hamlets.
Private schools also operated in the city of Esparza, including:
In 1862, a private school led by Genoveva Gutiérrez, who was the teacher and director, was subsidized by the Municipality. It was closed when official public education was established in 1870.
In 1897, a private school run by Prudencio Zúñiga Vasco in his own house with him as the only teacher ended its services in 1898 because the authorities compelled parents to send their children to the official school.
From 1898 to 1901, another private school operated, directed by María Pecinos V. de Mora, who was the sole teacher and director. It exclusively enrolled girls and was closed for the same reason as the previous one.
2- Secondary Education Centers
In 1965, the Esparza Lyceum opened its classrooms, a long-awaited achievement that was the golden dream of many Esparzanos for years. Since its inception, it has had the dynamic drive of its director, Mr. Alvaro Pérez Jiménez, who, with discipline and effort, has placed the institution in a prestigious position.
Initially, the Lyceum operated in classrooms provided by the Arturo Torres School. However, in 1969, the new campus was inaugurated, built on land donated by the government, where the Esparza-Barranca railroad station and workshops were once located.
During this year of 1971, a Mature Student Baccalaureate group has been organized, offering many the opportunity for higher education.
There is a possibility that in the coming years, a Night School will be established to prevent many young people from having to seek education in Puntarenas. Its creation is already in progress, although its opening is not yet finalized.
3- Cinemas
There is only one movie theater, and it has been noticed that since the widespread use of television, the daily attendance has decreased.
4- Cultural Center
Since 1945, there has been the so-called Esparza Recreational Cultural Center, providing young people with an opportunity for wholesome entertainment.
The dances organized by this Center to celebrate the Patron Saint Festivities in February were famous. All of Esparza, the entire Port, and every Esparzan residing in any corner of the country would gather for three consecutive days: on February 2nd, the eve, and the following day. The Virgin of Candelaria witnessed three days of general jubilation. Gradually, this celebration has been losing its former splendor.
5- The Church as a Religious and Cultural Center
The city of Esparza boasts a beautiful Catholic church that embellishes it, gathering parishioners for Sunday Mass and some, every day. Two priests, the titular Priest, and the Coadjutor, administer the extensive Parish, dedicated to the Holy Spirit and Our Lady of Candelaria, evidencing the profound faith of the Esparzan Catholics.
The first priest of Esparza was Fray Diego Guillen around 1574. When the Parish of Puntarenas was created in 1850, it was also administered by the Esparza priest until a separate priest was appointed.
Attached to the Parish is the so-called Parochial House, serving the community, where regular courses in “Sewing and Dressmaking,” “Typing,” and “Culinary Arts” are provided. This has been greatly beneficial for girls with limited resources, offering them a path to sustain themselves.
All districts and some hamlets have their chapel, where the priest occasionally comes to celebrate Mass. On the Patron Saint’s day, they organize shifts with “ribbon races” and other typical activities.
It’s worth noting the existence of a Protestant church, where there is always a well-intentioned and capable Pastor contributing to the spiritual stability of a significant number of Esparzanos. It has always been evident that despite the strong roots of the Catholic religion, the Esparzan is not, and has not been, fanatical; they accept and even respect the coexistence with other religions.
6- Physical Culture
In reality, properly directed physical culture is only provided to the boys at the Lyceum during class hours.
In every district, there is a small field for playing soccer. The sports plaza in the city of Esparza is named after José María Chinchilla González.
Every afternoon, you can see boys practicing for future matches.
There’s a great passion for soccer, and there are several well-managed teams that bring a sporty vibe to Sundays.
In downtown Esparza, there are “La Selección,” “El Juvenil,” and “El Infantil.” Additionally, there are teams like “Bahía” from Macacona, “Perros de Parra” from Marañonal, teams from Chumical, San Juan, and San Jerónimo.
These teams engage in fierce matches in the sports plaza of the city of Esparza and sometimes in district and hamlet plazas, always drawing a large crowd.
Chapter IV
Conclusions
a- Economic Significance of the Esparza Canton in the Country’s Life
In recent years, there has been noticeable progressive material development in the city of Esparza: several paved streets, including the avenue by the cemetery named Alvarado in memory of don Francisco Alvarado, a benefactor who propelled the city’s progress; mercury lighting; improvements in the park; modern buildings like the Lyceum and the Fire Department Center; comfortable residential houses. Additionally, in December 1970, two million colones entered the city through an extraordinary lottery, which were well distributed among the very poor. Several of the modern residential homes have been built thanks to the “Gordo de Navidad” (Christmas lottery jackpot).
The economy of the Esparza Canton barely extends into the country’s life because, despite its ancient foundation, it produces solely for its subsistence, with very little sold in other markets. Mostly, fruits, yuca, and tiquisque are sent from the canton to the Central Valley and the port of Puntarenas.
Livestock farming now absorbs the greatest efforts of the Esparzan, causing agriculture to lose its significance. Part of that livestock goes to Montecillos, part for export, and part for local markets.
If Esparza had been favored with the establishment of a significant industry within its boundaries, perhaps it would have prospered more; but the projects have always remained just that: projects.
And so, this ancient city traverses the path of progress at the pace of a turtle. If it took four hundred years to become what it is, how many will it need to become a prosperous canton, with an economy as developed as to transcend in the national economy?
The answer is a mystery that only time can unveil. Ten years? A thousand years? Never?
b- A Glimpse into the Future
Esparza, Espíritu Santo, Aranjuez…
With these names, we revive a past; we yearn for what once was. Step by step, history leads us hand in hand, tracing back in time, back to the very seed that gave birth to Esparza.
With a critical eye and a fervor for investigation, we delve into that past, trying to uncover its deepest secrets.
Then, with eyes filled with hope, we look towards the future. It’s so alluring yet so challenging to gaze into the future!
With optimism, we contemplate the possibility that the Esparzan breaks free from their apathy, from their four-century slumber, and with a new mentality, decides to embark on the fight for the development and prosperity of their land. Complacency has been a sedative that must be shed to walk firmly and securely towards a better Esparza.
Text by Elieth Perez Chacon in January 1972